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Why Pavers?Pavers have been used for centuries. If you don't believe us, pick up a history book and take a look at some of the pavers the Ancient Romans installed. There's good reason why pavers have been used forever and aren't going out of style anytime soon.
Beauty
Pavers come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, styles, and colors. They can be laid in a plethora of different patterns, and they can be sealed to manipulate their finished appearance. There is no higher end look for walkways, patios, outdoor living spaces, or firepit areas than pavers. Whether you want tan, black, brown, gray, or neopoly, there is a paver that is just right for you. Durability Unlike concrete, pavers will rarely crack. And if a paver does crack, it can be replaced (every install comes with some replacement pavers). If pavers are installed correctly they should last a lifetime with minimal maintenance. Continuity with Outdoor Living If you want pavers there's a good chance you'll want things like firepits, sitting walls, retaining walls, outdoor kitchens, etc. You can choose pavers that are the same style and color as your other hardscape material selections, creating continuity throughout your landscape. |
The Paver Process
Planning
Where should the patio start? Where should it end? Straight lines or curves? Square corners or curved corners? Will we be installing other features (fire-pit, sitting wall, etc.)? Does the patio need to withstand extraordinary weight loads like a hot tub? Where does the water need to run-off of the patio? Where will the dirt go from excavation? These are just a few of the questions that must be answered before any work is done. Check out our design and build page for details on design.
Digging
Typically the area where the pavers are going will need to be excavated/graded to allow for 4-6" of crush n' run, 1" of sand, and the thickness of the pavers. All loose/disrupted dirt must be removed, so that there is no chance for settling. The area should be roughly graded to follow the drop of the patio for drainage.
Installing Base
Crush n' run must be added and compacted (with a plate compactor and hand tamp around difficult areas) in 2-3" lifts until reaching the desired height of base material. For the majority of patios, 4" of base material is thick enough. However, for driveways and areas that will bear extraordinary loads 6-8" of crush n' run may be required. We add water to the crush n' run while compacting with the plate compactor. This allows us to reach 100% compaction, so that the base will never sink or settle over time.
Screeding Sand
Once the base aggregate is installed and compacted, we lay screed rods on top of the base. These are leveled in as guides to screed sand perfectly level. Once the screed rods are in, sand is added in between. Then, we screed the sand with a screed board to create a level bed of sand, ready for pavers. At this point, the patio should look something like this:
Where should the patio start? Where should it end? Straight lines or curves? Square corners or curved corners? Will we be installing other features (fire-pit, sitting wall, etc.)? Does the patio need to withstand extraordinary weight loads like a hot tub? Where does the water need to run-off of the patio? Where will the dirt go from excavation? These are just a few of the questions that must be answered before any work is done. Check out our design and build page for details on design.
Digging
Typically the area where the pavers are going will need to be excavated/graded to allow for 4-6" of crush n' run, 1" of sand, and the thickness of the pavers. All loose/disrupted dirt must be removed, so that there is no chance for settling. The area should be roughly graded to follow the drop of the patio for drainage.
Installing Base
Crush n' run must be added and compacted (with a plate compactor and hand tamp around difficult areas) in 2-3" lifts until reaching the desired height of base material. For the majority of patios, 4" of base material is thick enough. However, for driveways and areas that will bear extraordinary loads 6-8" of crush n' run may be required. We add water to the crush n' run while compacting with the plate compactor. This allows us to reach 100% compaction, so that the base will never sink or settle over time.
Screeding Sand
Once the base aggregate is installed and compacted, we lay screed rods on top of the base. These are leveled in as guides to screed sand perfectly level. Once the screed rods are in, sand is added in between. Then, we screed the sand with a screed board to create a level bed of sand, ready for pavers. At this point, the patio should look something like this:
Installing Pavers
Once the sand bed is ready for pavers, the fun part begins, laying pavers. We start with a straight line, which could be a structure that we are building against (like a house) or by dropping a string line. Then we place down the pavers in a specific pattern (determined with the homeowner before hand). Some patios are "cutless," but for most we will have to make cuts around obstacles and for any curved edges. Patios with curves generally require a solider course, which is a row of pavers that outline the entire patio with a clean line. The cuts are made on the outmost pavers before the soldier course.
Compact Pavers
After the pavers are installed, we gently compact the pavers into the sand with a plate compactor. We put plywood in between the compactor and the pavers to prevent cracking in the pavers. This process solidifies the pavers and evens out any unevenness in between pavers.
Edge Restraint
Plastic pieces of edge restraint are installed around all the unsupported edges of each patio. This locks in the sand and pavers, preventing rain from washing out your perfectly level and stable patio.
Joint Sand
The last thing before the completion of a paver patio is sweeping sand into the joints between pavers. Polymeric sand can be added, which undergoes a chemical reaction when it comes into contact with water. It solidifies, hardening the sand in between the pavers. This has its advantages, such as the following: more weed resistant, does not wash out, requires no maintenance. The downside to polymeric is that it will eventually gum up and need to be removed and replaced. It normally takes 5+ years to go bad, but it is tough to replace.
Regular sand is a great alternative to polymeric. Rather than having to replace it every 5-10 years, you simply add additional sand annually. It's more frequent maintenance, but it's easier than removing and replacing polymeric sand.
Sealing
Patios can be sealed for improve aesthetics, durability, and cleanliness. However, we have to wait 6-12 months before coming back to seal the pavers. Checkout this "wet-look" sealer on Amazon.
*photo below illustrates wet look vs. dry
Once the sand bed is ready for pavers, the fun part begins, laying pavers. We start with a straight line, which could be a structure that we are building against (like a house) or by dropping a string line. Then we place down the pavers in a specific pattern (determined with the homeowner before hand). Some patios are "cutless," but for most we will have to make cuts around obstacles and for any curved edges. Patios with curves generally require a solider course, which is a row of pavers that outline the entire patio with a clean line. The cuts are made on the outmost pavers before the soldier course.
Compact Pavers
After the pavers are installed, we gently compact the pavers into the sand with a plate compactor. We put plywood in between the compactor and the pavers to prevent cracking in the pavers. This process solidifies the pavers and evens out any unevenness in between pavers.
Edge Restraint
Plastic pieces of edge restraint are installed around all the unsupported edges of each patio. This locks in the sand and pavers, preventing rain from washing out your perfectly level and stable patio.
Joint Sand
The last thing before the completion of a paver patio is sweeping sand into the joints between pavers. Polymeric sand can be added, which undergoes a chemical reaction when it comes into contact with water. It solidifies, hardening the sand in between the pavers. This has its advantages, such as the following: more weed resistant, does not wash out, requires no maintenance. The downside to polymeric is that it will eventually gum up and need to be removed and replaced. It normally takes 5+ years to go bad, but it is tough to replace.
Regular sand is a great alternative to polymeric. Rather than having to replace it every 5-10 years, you simply add additional sand annually. It's more frequent maintenance, but it's easier than removing and replacing polymeric sand.
Sealing
Patios can be sealed for improve aesthetics, durability, and cleanliness. However, we have to wait 6-12 months before coming back to seal the pavers. Checkout this "wet-look" sealer on Amazon.
*photo below illustrates wet look vs. dry
Pricing!
The details will always be a factor in pricing every project. If a patio requires no excavation it will be much cheaper than if we have to remove 30 tons of dirt to reach the correct grade for your paver project. Also, the pavers chosen for each installation is a large variable. Some pavers are as low as $3 per square foot to purchase, while others can be as much as $10 per square foot.
Common Variables include:
- paver selection
- grading requirements
- size (the bigger the cheaper per square foot)
- joint sand selected (polymeric is more)
- amount of cuts required (more curves = more cuts)
- soldier course
Labor with Material (except pavers & joint sand): $10-17 per square foot
- large patios can be as low as $10 per square foot if they have: minimal cuts, minimal excavation/grading, open-access
- small or difficult patios can be as much as $17 per square foot, difficulty factors include: steep slopes, curves, difficult access, etc.
Paver Price
* non Belgard pavers can be used upon special request
Cambridge Cobble: $3.25
Lafitt: $4
Dublin Cobble: $4.5
Rustic Slab: $4.5
Melville Slab: $5
Average patio pricing with pavers included is $14-$20, and the majority of installs are in the $16-$18 range.
Warranty
Our standard warranty is 24 months on workmanship. This is double the industry standard. We always stand behind our work, that is why we have such good reviews. If something does go wrong, we fix it.
Common Variables include:
- paver selection
- grading requirements
- size (the bigger the cheaper per square foot)
- joint sand selected (polymeric is more)
- amount of cuts required (more curves = more cuts)
- soldier course
Labor with Material (except pavers & joint sand): $10-17 per square foot
- large patios can be as low as $10 per square foot if they have: minimal cuts, minimal excavation/grading, open-access
- small or difficult patios can be as much as $17 per square foot, difficulty factors include: steep slopes, curves, difficult access, etc.
Paver Price
* non Belgard pavers can be used upon special request
Cambridge Cobble: $3.25
Lafitt: $4
Dublin Cobble: $4.5
Rustic Slab: $4.5
Melville Slab: $5
Average patio pricing with pavers included is $14-$20, and the majority of installs are in the $16-$18 range.
Warranty
Our standard warranty is 24 months on workmanship. This is double the industry standard. We always stand behind our work, that is why we have such good reviews. If something does go wrong, we fix it.
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Contact Us for Your Free Estimate!
If you need paver patios and you live in Gainesville GA, Oakwood GA, Flowery Branch GA, Buford GA, Suwanee GA, Alpharetta GA, Duluth GA, Johns Creek GA, or Cumming GA, contact us today! |
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